Return to Tuscany

Finalmente - we are on our way back to Tuscany! We are headed to Pienza for our Creative Vision in Tuscany workshop with photographer Joel Wolfson from Flagstaff AZ. He went over early to get the rain out of the way for us! Looks like sunny skies ahead. Follow along on his blog http://joelwolfson.blogspot.com as well. Our group will be in Pienza and surrounding areas from May 2nd - May 9th. Come along with us as we capture the beautiful scenes of the Val d'Orcia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A presto!

The Art of Chianti

During the week of August 17th - 24th, while many Italians were still on holiday for Ferragosto - a few artists from Phoenix took in the Chianti Countryside with their eyes, with their paints, pastels and with their hearts. We spent a wonderful week once again at Il Borgo Villa di Bossi Pucci located just south of Florence near the town of Montespertoli. Pastel artist Liz Kenyon created this trip to allow fellow artists to join her while she worked on her own series.

On the day we arrived, we all checked into our simple but elegant apartments just prior to a huge downpour which drenched the land and, as quickly as it came, the skies opened back up to bright sunshine and puffy white clouds. We all enjoyed a wonderful welcome antipasti - which is typically appetizers but always turns into a full blown meal at Il Borgo. We enjoyed fresh tomatoes picked from the garden, Il Borgo's own wine and olive oil from their nearby castle estate, hand-made pasta and bread made by Alessandro's 8 year old son Francesco and much more. Above, Liz helps set the tone for the joyful week ahead. Ahhhh Chianti!

After a much needed siesta and time to unpack and get settled - we hopped into the van to take a good look at the surrounding beauty which would make it's way onto the canvas over the next few days. At left is Barb's wonderful interpretation of Il Borgo's grand front yard.

That evening we all walked over to the community park where we enjoyed a delicious seafood dinner. Our reservations were drawn clearly on the butcher paper which lined the table! Even our guests who arrived from the U.S. that day were such troopers ignoring the time change and long flight to stay and enjoy this typical local summer dinner - the typical dinner which starts long after what we consider dinnertime to be! There were great cheers when the three-wheeled vehicles showed up with the giant pots of linguini and clam sauce and delicious fish stew!

The next day, the artists found their places around Il Borgo to begin their "field sketches" and record their interpretations of the Chianti countryside. The artists would create several paintings over the next few days of various sites in and around Il Borgo and the surrounding towns. The property itself lent many opportunities for artists with its fiascos and courtyards, cypress lined drive, charming chapel and sprawling valley views.

With Florence only 20 minutes away, we always make sure to include a full day visit during our stays at Il Borgo. Our artists opted to visit the Uffizi Gallery and Academia to view some of Florence's most treasured works of art including Michelangelo's David and Botticelli's Birth of Venus. We strolled along the River Arno and spent some time on the infamous Ponte Vecchio. Piazza Signori is always a focus of attention while in Florence with its grand statues and fountains. We also made some time to view the amazing Duomo and Baptistry as well as enjoy some gelato, of course!

Another wonderful field trip was to the small town of Volpaia just north of Radda in Chianti. This little gem of a town has a small cafe in the central piazza and a wonderful restaurant called La Bottega both owned by two sisters who have lived in Volpaia for over 70 years. We had incredible views of the valley from our table and enjoyed a variety of wonderful dishes from the country kitchen such as handmade ravioli and tagliatelle with mushrooms. In Volpaia, there are no gift shops, markets or tobacco stores and best of all, there is no traffic! Streets and doorways are lined with flower pots bursting with colorful plants and herbs. Here the artists set up their easels in town to capture some of the beauty this town offers. A small tour group of American students came through on foot admiring Liz's work and the aspiring artists among them longed to join us!

To view more of Liz Kenyon's Art, please visit www.lizkenyon.com

Poppiano was another very special place just minutes from Il Borgo and her grand castle was always in view from our rooms. The sunflowers in the foreground had since passed with the exception of a few late bloomers, however, the scene was no less magnificent. We set up along the cypress line road in front of vineyards, peach, pear, and olive trees with the castle in the distance and Puccini playing in the background courtesy of our laptop. The sun was hot and bright - the colors brilliant. The clouds moved in giving the artists a bit of shade and offered new hues and puffy clouds for their skies. The interpretation of the scene was varied and interesting. It was another lovely day in the Chianti countryside.

Our visit to Chianti through artist's eyes has opened my eyes even more to the marvelous beauty, the brilliant colors, patterns, and patchwork this land beholds all which has been created by the fine hands of the agricultural artists of Tuscany and dutifully and respectfully preserved by the creative and talented hands of our artists Liz, Barb, Alicia and Barbara from Phoenix, Arizona.

See http://www.villavita.net/workshops_pastels.htm for more information on this workshop.

Ferragosto in the Val d'Orcia

The Fairs of August - celebrating the end of hard labor in the fields and marking the beginning of the harvest. August 15th is the actual holiday, however, generally the entire month of August recognizes this holiday. Before the Roman Catholic Church came into existence, this holiday was celebrated in the Roman Empire to honor the Gods and the cycle of fertility and ripening. The name of the holiday derives from its original Latin name Feriae Augusti - Fairs of August. In time, the Roman Church adopted this date to commemorate the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary - the real physical elevation of her sinless soul and uncorrupt body into Heaven. Whichever, it is a time for relaxing by the sea or in the mountains, enjoying fabulous feasts with family and friends and being thankful for the magnificent land of Italy and all that she provides... and we did just that!

We spent a week in Pienza - from August 10th - 17th. A lovely Renaissance town created by Pope Pius II. Originally named Corsignano, where he was born in 1405, and returned as Pope in 1459 transforming the peasant village into the ideal Renaissance town - an early example of urban planning at its finest. Streets named for love, fortune and hugs and kisses. Still to this day, 550 years later, the town continues to retain its charm evident in its structures as well as its residents.

Arriving on Sunday - we checked into the Albergo Rutiliano - a lovely B&B walking distance to town with large rooms and a sparkling pool which came in quite handy on a few occasions!. The best part about this place is Silvia - our warm and attentive front desk manager... and the breakfast is pretty good too!

The Internet was not working and because it was Ferragosto - it was not about to get fixed anytime soon. Everyone was on holiday. So that left more time for me to be out and enjoy - dancing to the rhythm that is Italy.

Our first full day - we all took part in a walking tour of Pienza - Our guide Anna - was so thin, the slightest breeze we were afraid would take her away from us - so we paid close attention as not to lose her! She gave us the grand tour of the Duomo - the Piazza - the transformation of the town form Corsignano to Pienza - Pointed out the Palaces - each architects work - and then we strolled down the street of new houses - new in 1462 that is...

Following the tour tour - we stopped for lunch at the Latte di Luna - Milk of the Moon - a favorite restaurant of many visiting this town. We had handmade pasta and crostinis - and of course, the local salamis and pecorino cheese made from sheep's milk. By day 3 we would be praying the next meal would not be including more cheese!

This was the first of many fantastic dining experiences we continued to enjoy during the days ahead.


Our week included things that you typically would not visit as an American tourist - One in particular is the Teatro Povero in nearby Monticchiello, mainly because it is entirely in Italian, of course. Every summer for three weeks, the entire town square of this medieval village is transformed into a grand stage and the residents become actors - amazingly good actors! Created in the 60's as a way to express the hardship of living in the Italian countryside during the industrial revolution, the Teatro Povero (Poor Theater) has become extremely popular with Italians and theater goers worldwide as a unique and memorable experience.
It can be however, one of those evenings where you wondered why you were there at the time and spoke eagerly about it to others upon your return home...

One of our favorite afternoons was spent at Casale Farm. We were given a brief tour of the grounds, introduced to the donkeys, pigs, goats and peacocks and Sandra, the elegant caretaker carefully explained proudly the unique process of making organic pecorino cheeses by hand. Afterwards, we sat down to what was to be one of our favorite meals of the week... all organic foods, fresh tomatoes drizzled with homemade olive oil and fresh basil, spelt (barley) salad, handmade wheat pasta salad, grilled veggies including zucchini, eggplant and peppers, and cheeses - lots of glorious cheeses...

Now, you may have already heard this, and I am here to tell you that it is all true - the most important part of almost any trip to Italy is the visit to the gelateria! The selection process is not taken lightly... many of the choices are typically between strawberry or melon, chocolate and cream, banana, hazelnut and pistachio - and even saffron if you are lucky (a Sicilian favorite). But which goes best with which? And in a cone or in a cup? Surely you will get two flavors.... I recommend ordering your favorite as a base and pair that flavor with every other flavor offered every chance you get! Al loves strawberry and lemon! Fragole e Limone!

Wednesday was a full day tour of the surrounding area... Our trusty driver Ilario ensured us of the highlights and hidden gems of his neighborhood. We drove through the center of neighboring San Quirico - only vehicles with special taxi licenses afford this benefit... then we visited the beautiful town of Montalcino where the famed Brunello wine is produced. We strolled through the quiet streets stopping for pictures or shopping... The residents, even during the late summer after months of seeing their streets lined with tourists, still offer a warm smile...




And the landscape continued to be simply stunning.

After Montalcino - we enjoyed a tour of the Fattoria dei Barbi situated just south of the town - one of the oldest wineries in the region producing fine Brunello wines for 5 generations... Bottles on display dated back to 1895! Our tasting including samplings of their wines as well as their salamis and of course - cheese!






We also stopped at Sant'Antimo Monastery arriving in time for the 2:45 mass and chanting. These days it is a bit different as most pews are filled with tourists instead of townspeople - however, the chanting continues to stir our souls...




One of our days, a few of our guests partook in an early morning balloon flight with Ballooning in Tuscany - Englishman and veteran pilot Robert Etherington was at the burners launching from his home in nearby Montisi. As they ascended into the sky for a bird's eye view of Tuscany- we headed back to gather up the others to head out on our half day tour visiting San Anna Comprena (made famous in the U.S. as the setting for the English Patient), Il Casale farm and the artist studio of Aleardo and Enrico Paolucci - a father and son artist studio producing some very important and magnificent artwork from the Pienza region. Aleardo is explaining his work above and son Enrico's studio is below. The passion of artwork transcends much of our language barriers. Absolutely wonderful.


So much more to see and say.... and of course then there is Siena - and the Palio... next up.

Siena during Palio

July 2nd and August 16th each year the town of Siena is transformed into a grand arena where one can experience what the Sienese life evolves around all year long - The Palio. A tradition dating back as early as the 14th century, the Palio has retained its importance in daily life today.

To the visitor, the Palio is an anything-goes, bareback horse race between 10 horses which race around a track 3 times and the winner gets the Palio - a beautiful silk banner designed by local artists which is proudly displayed in the town hall of the winning neighborhood or Contrada. The track is made with truckloads of earth laid down around the Piazza del Campo, one of the most beautiful piazzas in all of Italy. The days leading up to the event are filled with trial races and fanfare , flag waiving and general pageantry.

To the Sienese, the dedication and conviction to their heritage, to their religion, to their community, and to their entire existence is based around the Palio. Only the Sienese can truly understand the importance of this race - It is indeed the true pulse of Siena.

The Palio of August 16, 2008, it was also a very special day as it was a big birthday of one of our very dear friends Al and the reason for our trip. Our group had fun selecting our favorite contrada , purchased flags denoting their emblems and colors and watched the race from a small bar outside of town - far from the madding crowds. This year Il Bruco won - the caterpillar - it was the neighborhood I stayed in while attending language school in Siena. It was good to see Il Bruco win. Just 4 years prior on the Palio of August 16th, 2004, Il Bruco's horse fell and was badly trampled and died of its injuries. A very sad sacrifice. Long live Siena and the Palio.

For more information on the Palio in Siena - please visit http://www.ilpalio.org/index_english.htm

Here you can view videos and more http://www.ilpalio.org/assunta08.htm

A Few Days in Rome

Rome is one of those cities that you fall in love with but cannot actually pinpoint exactly why. It could be the incredible evidence of the past centuries where current day Rome still flourishes. It could be globalness of it all; dozens of languages spoken on every corner and bar. It could be the sacredness of this eternal city with its hundreds of churches and sculptures of worship. Whatever floats your boat on the Tiber, you are among the masses that come each year. Most come just for a few days to catch a glimpse of the Coliseum, or Pantheon, to throw a coin in the Trevi to ensure a future return trip and/or spend the day in the amazing Vatican City. And no one seems to leave disappointed with however they spend their time here. We spent 3 nights in Rome prior to our Val d'Orcia Tuscany program. I personally spent most of my Rome time taking in the atmosphere around the Pantheon. For me, this area pulsates with the ancient roots of the city. The mighty and resounding Pantheon surviving over 1800 years in the center of this empire is stark proof of the city's resilience and stalwartness. And you do not need to know much about this large domed temple to feel her magnificence... even through the hundreds of cameras clicking, horses drawing tourists, and crowds of on lookers... there she is - majestically maintaining her center-of- the-universe stature she justly deserves. Rome is worth the visit, if even only for a few days...

Agosto in Italia

It's no secret that Italians go on holiday in August either to the beach or to the mountains. This August, more Italians are coming to the U.S. taking advantage of their favorable exchange rate. Americans too, are still enjoying visits to Italy in more creative ways in response to our not so favorable exchange rate. We look more now for smaller family-owned places to stay in the country instead of larger hotels in the heart of the cities. Places where we can cook a few meals for ourselves instead of dining out every night allowing us visits to the local markets where we interact more with the residents. Travel itineraries include more walking and cycling than driving. We tend to enjoy more educational programs versus general sight-seeing vacations. The result? A richer experience that is still affordable where we bring home so much more in addition to our photos and souvenirs.

And traveling in August is warm, yes. And many places such as stores are closed for the month, yes. But the traffic is lighter, the museum lines are shorter, and there is still much to see and do in Italy in August. Besides, with the dollar as it is, we do less shopping anyway! And we enjoy more just being in Italy in the summertime.

Ciao for Now Il Borgo

I am sitting on the plane en route back to the U.S. after another absolutely wonderful stay in Tuscany thinking to myself “how can I be so lucky”? I believe a large part of my good fortune can be accredited to learning about Il Borgo Villa di Bossi Pucci. Since I first entered through the grand gates last year, I (and everyone I bring here) have been treated with such good care. The apartments are simple and elegantly furnished with full living rooms and breakfast kitchens. Each building is restored to reveal its original typical Tuscan architecture. The views from the terraces in the 2 bedroom villas are stunning. I must admit I spent a great deal of time here admiring it all during my stay. The fog rolling down into the valley in the morning, the late afternoon cloud burst and thunderstorms, and the sunset (after 9pm in June) turning the valley to a gold and green paradise is as much a part of the holiday as is the trips to all the charming hill towns and restaurants.

The owner of the estate is a former CEO of Hilton International and American Express which helps to explain the top notch service and quality accommodations. Daily management of the property is under the capable hands of Alessandro Guerrieri. He, his wife Julia and their two sons all live on the estate. On a quiet afternoon in the summer, you can catch a glimpse of the boys playing soccer in one of the many grassy fields surrounding the estate. On special occasions, the large central courtyard plays host to classical concerts with local musicians and other such venues. The pool boasts the same fantastic views as the 2 bedroom villas with Poppiano Castle to the left and Montespertoli in the direct distance just past the vineyards and olive groves. Walking paths and quiet country roads lead in all directions from here taking you further into a Tuscan dream.

The landscaping is abound with rosemary and roses, terra cotta pots brimming with blossoms and of course, lots of olive trees and cypress. There is a little ancient chapel on property tucked away in a small wooded area just past the pool. It was very common for larger estates to all have their own chapel centuries ago. Just below the pool, a grassy pathway leads to the small town of Montagnana. Here there is the general store, (alimentari) a wonderful pizzeria, un ristorante, café, hair salon, gas station, post office, and real estate office. I could not resist taking a look at the few homes and apartments for sale, after all, this is a slice of paradise. Many of the apartments in Il Borgo are for sale as well if you are like me and would like this to be a more permanent holiday. In the meantime, staying at Il Borgo and participating in the Lessons of Tuscany program is the next best way to experience all the splendors of Tuscany.

http://www.villavita.net/experience.htm