A Few Days in Rome

Rome is one of those cities that you fall in love with but cannot actually pinpoint exactly why. It could be the incredible evidence of the past centuries where current day Rome still flourishes. It could be globalness of it all; dozens of languages spoken on every corner and bar. It could be the sacredness of this eternal city with its hundreds of churches and sculptures of worship. Whatever floats your boat on the Tiber, you are among the masses that come each year. Most come just for a few days to catch a glimpse of the Coliseum, or Pantheon, to throw a coin in the Trevi to ensure a future return trip and/or spend the day in the amazing Vatican City. And no one seems to leave disappointed with however they spend their time here. We spent 3 nights in Rome prior to our Val d'Orcia Tuscany program. I personally spent most of my Rome time taking in the atmosphere around the Pantheon. For me, this area pulsates with the ancient roots of the city. The mighty and resounding Pantheon surviving over 1800 years in the center of this empire is stark proof of the city's resilience and stalwartness. And you do not need to know much about this large domed temple to feel her magnificence... even through the hundreds of cameras clicking, horses drawing tourists, and crowds of on lookers... there she is - majestically maintaining her center-of- the-universe stature she justly deserves. Rome is worth the visit, if even only for a few days...

Lucca

Lucca is a town that is so easy to reach - just off the main highway between Florence and the sea. But once you arrive, you feel worlds away from everything. This perfectly sized walled city is not considered a hill town – the hills are surrounding the town just past the River Serchio. It is primarily flat which is why bicycles are by far the preferred mode of transportation here. One can also easily walk on top of the massive sixteenth century walls around the town for a lovely stroll or taking a bicycle around the outer loop is also very popular.

Inside the walls is everything you would want your favorite medieval city to have; a grand piazza where everyone meets and local musicians play, lots of local markets and fine shops, an antiques market, many fabulous restaurants, great bakeries, fruit markets, wine stores, gelaterias , museums, theaters, incredible churches and lovely hotels. It also happens to be the birthplace of the famous Giacomo Puccini and this year marks the 150th anniversary of his birth. There were banners hanging from every lamppost in honor of remembering this great author of some of the world’s most famous operas.

We had the good fortune to be shown around this town by local resident and tour operator Silvia from Tamitaly Tours. Born and raised in Lucca, she knows the intimate details and history of many of the magnificent structures. One tower which she pointed out to us had large, beautiful trees growing on top (see photo top right). The height of a tower she told us was a sign of power and wealth. When a neighboring tower was built of similar height, these trees were planted to rise above and keep its tallest structure status! A medieval and Renaissance way to keep up with the Jones’!

There are many ways in which to visit Lucca – One way is to come for a Tuscan Cooking Program with local chef and culinary teacher Giuseppe Mazzocchi (who also helped to show us around this beautiful town). He was born on a small olive farm not far from Lucca and has spent many years enjoying and teaching the fine art of Tuscan cooking. He shows students how to create wonderful and simple meals which can easily be recreated upon return home. The classroom is in the heart of old Lucca and the program includes visits to the surrounding small markets to collect the freshest of ingredients as well as journeys outside of the walls to the local farms, vineyards and olive oil production facilities. A stay at the 4 star San Luca Palace Hotel also helps to make this program unforgettable. And, visiting for a day in Lucca as we did still made our trip unforgettable. A presto Lucca!

The Castle Dinner

A stay at Il Borgo would not be complete without dinner at their sister property – Castello di Santa Maria Novella. This 11th century structure which was destroyed and rebuilt in 1313 has significant importance to the surrounding area between Florence and Siena. Sitting atop one of the highest points in the area, the castle boasts spectacular views. Upon arrival, we received a warm welcome and a grand tour from Fernando, the director of the estate who eloquently gave us the condensed history of this stately property and graciously paused often to allow for the many photos being taken. The castle is meticulously restored to its original splendor sporting a grand courtyard where the local residents would gather. This night it is where we enjoyed a nice aperitif – a carafe of white wine with a sprig of Rosemary giving it a wonderful earthy aroma and flavor. We enjoyed lightly fried zucchini flowers and sage leaves and Tuscan pecorino cheese served with fig marmalade. Yummy.

Afterwards, our group of fourteen went into one of the many main dining rooms to enjoy a feast fit for Noble Italian families. The table was beautifully decorated with candles and fresh flowers. We started with the house wine, Chianti of course, and then enjoyed antipasti of perfectly ripe cantaloupe and local prosciutto, followed by handmade ravioli stuffed with spinach and fresh ricotta cheese. Our second plate or meat course was mildly seasoned thinly sliced beef served on a bed of arugula served with a delicious cherry tomato salad. Our servers were attentive and charming coming around and offering seconds of every dish. We topped the meal off with a light white cake layered with a delicate custard served with frutti di bosco – the fruit of the forest – flavorful tart and juicy berries handpicked from around the property. We all gave a well-deserved round of applause to Chef Claudio who gratefully accepted and was clearly pleased to see how much we all enjoyed his creations. Dinner at the Castle is always one of the highlights of a stay at Il Borgo.

Arrival Dinner

Our group arrived on Saturday - some from Rome, some from Venice, some from the states and a few from the coast. So for this reason, we kept first night’s dinner low key and all walked down to the local pizzeria after getting settled. Coming from the larger cities, everyone was pleasantly surprised at the low cost and good quality of the pizza, the large fresh salads from local gardens, overflowing bowls of pasta of course, and carafes of locally produced wine and Italian beer. Our young waitress Barbara seemed genuinely enthused to take our order and tried her best to speak English to make sure she understood our wishes. She like many young Italians love America and hope to visit someday.

We all sat at one long table out on the patio enjoying the fresh Tuscan country air. Only an occasional scooter screamed by keeping us alert to the contrasts of the old and new and slow and fast co-existing and intertwined in daily life - all part of the rhythm of the land.